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Kim's Summer Linen Helmi Shirt


Instagram Handle: @diddlysquash_
Pattern Name and Designer: Helmi by Johanna “Jo” Morris and  Rebekah Foley-Read for Tauko issue 3
Size Made: 7
Materials used (fabric, notions, kits, etc.): Roma Washed Linen in Blooming Dahlia
Modifications: widened arm cuffs 1”

The latest issue of Tauko, immediately caught my attention, thanks to its theme of vintage inspired designs. So many of the projects inside were lovely and tempting, but Helmi was an immediate yes from me! In line with the theme, it’s a blouse inspired by Victorian women’s wear, but with some modern touches like a keyhole neck. Long had I been looking for a simple blouse with a Peter Pan collar, specifically to layer with other pieces in my handmade wardrobe, and the fuller sleeves will be cool and comfortable in the warm Colorado summer.

Helmi includes several different options to make the shirt your own, including two different collars and optional shoulder ruffles. There’s also a few ways to do the neck closures, so it’s a pattern you could easily make several times to end up with completely unique shirts! As I mentioned, I wanted a simple layering piece for pinafores and overalls, so I kept it pretty classic. 

The tailored fit of the blouse is achieved through fish eye darts on the back, and though it was my first time sewing these, I love how they turned out and how they keep the blouse from being too flowy. Again, perfect for layering!

The thing that really gets me about this pattern though is that the only adjustment I made was to make a wider cuff for the sleeves, simply because I prefer that fit. Never before have I been able to sew a garment with no mods for length at the least, so this was a very pleasant surprise for me! The size range in Tauko patterns is wonderfully inclusive, and this really only makes me excited to do more from this publication. Sewists who aren’t six feet tall may want to double check the finished garment measurements/length for the Helmi blouse, however. 

Linen was an easy fabric to pick for this, especially in the peachy pink blooming dahlia color. It’s a little more fun than a plain white, while still being easy to pair with most things in my wardrobe. Though I planned on wearing it under things, I think it’s pretty cute on its own too. The color and fiber should serve nicely during the rest of spring and through summer!

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