I've been needing a nice, basic black top for my orchestra concerts. When we got in the Straight Stitch Designs Leschi pattern, I just knew it would be perfect! I'm always drawn to simple shapes with fun details - the sweet gathers at the shoulder and the back yoke add a bit of interest, without being too fussy. I also knew the swingy shape would be comfortable and allow for a lot of movement.
As the pattern suggests, I chose my size off of my high bust because the difference between my high and full bust is more than 2". My high bust was right between a 16 and 18, but I went ahead with the size 16 because she includes the finished measurements (thank you, Kimberly!) and I knew there would be enough ease. I graded to an 18 at the hips for a little extra wiggle room.
Pattern: Leschi Blouse by Straight Stitch Designs
Materials: 2 1/8 yards of Cupro / Rayon 120 Denier in Black
Size Made: 16 at bust, graded to an 18 at hips
Modifications: Cut the neckband on the straight grain and did not interface, shortened the back hem by 3", finished bottom hem with a rolled hem.
This is my second project using this Cupro, and while the end result is SO worth the effort, it does require some deep breathing and pep talks. I highly recommend finishing your seams with a serger for this fabric - it frays quite a bit once cut. It is also quite shifty and would probably be better suited to cutting one layer at a time (which I did not do). I probably would have had better luck if I had used a washable spray stabilizer before cutting the fabric - but alas, I was in a time crunch as usual. I think it worked out in the end!
I did have a bit of gathering in my sleeve cap, but I'm guessing it was because the cupro stretched a bit after cutting. I finished the hem with a simple rolled hem on my serger. This technique is my favorite way to hem the cupro and saves a lot of time with such a slinky fabric. But if you could feel the finished shirt, you'd understand why it is one of my favorites! It has a bit of body, is totally opaque, and feels buttery soft!
Leschi is suitable for lots of different types of fabrics - try yours in a crisp cotton lawn, classic chambray, Brussels Washer, or even our Viscose Batiste for a similar look to mine. And don't forget to check out Kimberly's upcoming class on May 18th - she'll be focusing on fit and will help you make your own Leschi from start to finish!