I've wanted to make Dress No. 1 from 100 Acts of Sewing since a few of them started popping up in my Instagram feed, but I was waiting for the perfect fabric to show up. When I saw this indigo hemp and cotton window pane plaid I knew it had to be a Dress No. 1. I drew my idea up to make sure it was exactly what I envisioned. And, yep. It was.
Pattern: Dress No. 1 from 100 Acts of Sewing by Sonya Philips
Fabric: Hemp/cotton indigo window pane plaid (currently sold out, but check out our awesome collection of chambrays)
I'm really close in measurement to the size medium. It's actually about a 1/2" too small, but I decided that I'd go with it because I didn't want much ease in the bust. I was hoping it would make the shape of the dress more flattering on me if it was slightly fitted at the bust before it began to flare. I think it worked!
I decided to just use whatever bias tape I had on hand instead of buying more or making some. So, my neckline and armholes don't have matching bias bindings but I don't care!
I also decided to put the awesome pockets on the front and use French seams as well. The pockets were super easy to match seams because I used tracing paper and traced the window pane pattern onto it where the pocket needed to sit. I cut two pockets that were mirror images of each other and it made them really easy to sew on.
After being meticulous about cutting the front and back so that the plaids would match on the side seams and matching the pockets to the front of the dress, the assembly of the dress was really fast. It's just two pieces of fabric (and one pattern piece)! I quickly sewed the shoulders and sides with French seams. The front and back necklines are the same since you only have one pattern piece. Once the dress is constructed, you try it on and mark how low (or not) you want the front neckline to go. I lowered the neckline by 2" at the center front and then redrew the neck curve straight onto the dress using tailors chalk and making sure to keep the shoulder straps the same width. Then, I trimmed the extra off and finished the neck and armholes with a standard bias tape finish. I used our new Gutterman denim thread for top stitching the bias tape and pockets on and it blends perfectly with my fabric! When I hemmed this dress I shortened it by an inch and then turned the hem up 1/4" twice and top stitched it.
This dress is all I want to wear this summer, especially since we've already been hitting triple digit temps. You'll see me wearing it with flat sandals and a long necklace during the day, and I'll switch to heels for going out at night. I also can't wait to wear this dress with tall boots and cardigans this fall.
I've already made a second one and I'm considering how many I can get away with having in my wardrobe...