Size Made: Ilford Jacket by Friday Pattern Company – Placket Sleeve Version
Modifications: Fully lined, using instructions on the Friday Pattern Co. blog.
I was very excited about making the Ilford Jacket by Friday Pattern Company because I’ve been looking for a nice jacket to make, and this unisex pattern was the first that we got in store that I was really excited about making for myself!
I chose Essex Yarn Dyed fabric in Espresso for the exterior, and a Carolyn Friedlander print (Water Lilies in Green) for the lining.
While I’ve made a lined garment before (multiple Wiksten jackets) this was the first time I was doing a jacket with a placket sleeve, and that did add some complexity to the construction.
For the most part, this garment came together pretty easily for me. Having made collared shirts before, the collar wasn’t too challenging, and the lining part wasn’t too difficult. Until I got to the sleeve plackets. Because I was making it fully lined, the modification instructions have you wait until the very end, and the sleeves are fully attached and sewn closed, to make the plackets. And this was a bit challenging for me not only because the sleeve circumference at the wrist was a bit small to make it easy to sew, but also because of the 2 layers of the outer shell and the lining. I eventually figured it out and the plackets look ok, but I would probably try and figure out a different method next time as this was the most frustrating part of the construction and there are some issues, probably not too noticeable to anyone else, but they bug me a bit!
I also have some thoughts on how the jacket fits my body. While this is a unisex jacket, the drape of the garment is a little off for me. I sized up to a XXL for my shoulder/chest measurement, but that meant there’s a bit more room at the bottom of the jacket to account for a larger hip measurement, which I don’t have. I will probably go back in and make a couple darts to take out the extra fabric and adjust the way it hangs on my frame. Not too tricky, but a good reminder to look at all the measurements before deciding on a size to make and any adjustments that might help the fit!
Other than that one adjustment I’m planning on making, I am very happy with how the Jacket came together and looks and I can’t wait for cooler weather to wear it!