One of my goals for this year was to focus on the fit of my finished makes, rather than the sheer quantity of makes. I really love the idea of a capsule wardrobe, but I'm always drawn to pretty florals and stripes, so it sometimes feels impossible to reign it in. I've gotten better at limiting my lofty garment goals, though, and I'm trying to think of pieces that can contribute to a more cohesive wardrobe.
This pairing, a Rifle Paper Co. Ogden Cami, and a linen Hoshi Jacket was my first step towards that goal. Like Marta, my bust measurement falls outside the size range for the Ogden Cami, but with an FBA, it fits like a charm.
When Amber's sample of the Hoshi Jacket from the Constellations book was on display, I was instantly drawn to it. I love layering pieces, which is no surprise if you could see my closet full of cardigans. Knit cardigans are too hot for Colorado summers, though, and can sometimes be a little casual for certain occasions. This, in a pretty linen with interesting details, seemed like the perfect little jacket to pop over a cami and look put-together.
The Hoshi Jacket has 3 pattern sizes. I knew from trying on Amber's sample that I liked the fit of the upper bust, shoulders, and back of the S/M, but it just didn't wrap around enough in the front. I used the fitting techniques outlined in the Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting to determine how much I needed to add to the front panels in order to make it fit. If you don't know about this book - I can't recommend it enough! You basically try on the pattern tissue and make flat pattern adjustments, eliminating the need for a muslin. And it's a beast - 250 pages of photos and illustrations for almost any fitting problem you may run into - plus how to fix them!
But back to the Hoshi...once I had made the adjustments to my flat pattern, the jacket came together quickly. I cut and sewed the jacket in just two reasonable sewing sessions. Amber's unique construction of the pockets were fun to sew, and all of her finishing techniques resulted in a professionally finished garment. For the most part I followed the directions to a T, but I did not add a constellation block to the back and I stitched in the ditch to secure the back of the collar to the jacket.
Pattern: Hoshi Jacket from Constellations: 12 Pieced Astrological Blocks, 8 Personalized Sewing Projects
Fabric: 1-3/4 yards Romsey Linen in Charcoal
Modifications: Full Bust Adjustment, lengthened slightly
Size Made: S/M
The finished jacket is slightly cropped and I love pairing it with my Ogden Cami. Those pockets may be my favorite part of the design. I refer to them as my "podcast pockets", because they are the perfect size to store my phone while listening to my favorite podcasts and doing chores around the house.
NOTE: There is a missing instruction in the directions for the Hoshi Jacket. Please cut two 5" x 30" rectangles from the main fabric for use as the collar pieces.