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Bob’s Perfect Plaid Button Up

I’ve got the garment sewing bug again this spring, particularly to try a garment a bit more challenging than the tee shirts I sewed last summer. When I laid eyes on this Kokka Plaid, I knew exactly what I wanted it to be!

Bob is his sewn plaid button up shirt
Pattern: Merchant & Mills, The All State
Fabric: Kokka Yarn Dyed Plaid 
Size made: 44 (UK sizing)
Modifications: Added 3 1/2 inches to the total length of front and back panels

I was a bit hesitant to jump right into a button up with this beautiful fabric since I hadn’t attempted one yet, and I knew from my experience last year making Merchant & Mills’ The Tee that I might need to do some adjustments, specifically for my torso and stomach. So to start, I decided I’d make a ‘wearable muslin’ out of some quilting cotton I had in my stash.

Close up of Bob's plaid All State button up shirt
Overall, the All State is a pretty straightforward pattern to follow. There are good illustrations for the different steps, and there’s nothing too complicated for this relaxed style of button up. While the number of pattern pieces can seem daunting, let alone the somewhat magical way the collar and yoke comes together, the pattern does a great job of keeping the steps straightforward and easy to understand.

Bob's all state button up shirt features a casual split hem
I was so excited as I finished my muslin, but when I tried it on, it was just a bit too short for me. Whether because of a long torso or more likely the way my stomach carries a little extra weight (!), I knew I would need to add a little more length to the pattern before cutting into my beloved Kokka Plaid.

Bob's all state shirt with jeans standing in front of concrete wall in downtown Denver
After making sure the fit was good to go with an additional 3 1/2 inches added to the length, I jumped right in to this second version. I’m so thrilled with how it came out! The details like the wide border topstitching and the split hem give this button up a bit of a retro, relaxed feel that makes me think of a 50’s inspired shirt, so perfect for this coming summer! I can’t wait to make at least one or two more to round out my summer wardrobe.

Comments on this post (2)

  • Apr 21, 2019

    I live reading Bob’s posts because he’s so optimistic and enthusiastic!

    — Janet

  • Apr 21, 2019

    Bob’s shirt looks great! I made this pattern for the first time a few weeks ago and definitely did NOT find that the instructions were easy to understand or straightforward. I wonder if this is Merchant and Mills, or just men’s patterns in general (I thought the Gosling shirt instructions were sort of lacking but definitely not as minimal as the all state). I want to be able to make lots of stuff for my guy, and fortunately there are lots of tutorials on women’s pattern websites that apply to shirtmaking in general, but I really feel for guys who sew because it seems like the pattern options are way more limited and in my experience not nearly as well explained!

    — Sarah

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