I’ve got the garment sewing bug again this spring, particularly to try a garment a bit more challenging than the tee shirts I sewed last summer. When I laid eyes on this Kokka Plaid, I knew exactly what I wanted it to be!
Pattern: Merchant & Mills, The All State
Fabric: Kokka Yarn Dyed Plaid
Size made: 44 (UK sizing)
Modifications: Added 3 1/2 inches to the total length of front and back panels
I was a bit hesitant to jump right into a button up with this beautiful fabric since I hadn’t attempted one yet, and I knew from my experience last year making Merchant & Mills’ The Tee that I might need to do some adjustments, specifically for my torso and stomach. So to start, I decided I’d make a ‘wearable muslin’ out of some quilting cotton I had in my stash.
Overall, the All State is a pretty straightforward pattern to follow. There are good illustrations for the different steps, and there’s nothing too complicated for this relaxed style of button up. While the number of pattern pieces can seem daunting, let alone the somewhat magical way the collar and yoke comes together, the pattern does a great job of keeping the steps straightforward and easy to understand.
I was so excited as I finished my muslin, but when I tried it on, it was just a bit too short for me. Whether because of a long torso or more likely the way my stomach carries a little extra weight (!), I knew I would need to add a little more length to the pattern before cutting into my beloved Kokka Plaid.
After making sure the fit was good to go with an additional 3 1/2 inches added to the length, I jumped right in to this second version. I’m so thrilled with how it came out! The details like the wide border topstitching and the split hem give this button up a bit of a retro, relaxed feel that makes me think of a 50’s inspired shirt, so perfect for this coming summer! I can’t wait to make at least one or two more to round out my summer wardrobe.