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Amber's Wool Melton Hoodie Coat

I am SO thrilled with my new wool parka! We recently picked up The Assembly Line patterns in the shop. I chose to stitch up their Hoodie Parka during our Fall Coat Along. I'm extremely proud to have finished this beautiful coat, and it's destined to get a lot of wear! 

A person with long blonde hair stands smiling in front of a large barn-wood door. They wear a blue wool parka, a woolly beanie, and with one hand tugs at the pocket of their coat.

Fabric and Notions: Melton Wool Blend in Uniform, Main Lining: Merchant & Mills Garden Party Linen/Cotton Gingham, Sleeve Lining: Bemberg lining in Silver, Snaps: Dritz Sew-On Snaps Size 10 Black.
Pattern: Hoodie Parka by The Assembly Line
Size Made: M
Modifications: added a full lining

This coat is designed to be a mid-weight, windbreaker style jacket, intended to be made out of cotton twill or canvas...ooooh, or waxed canvas. But I got a bee in my bonnet to make it out of a lovely blue wool melton. Wool jackets are perfect for Colorado's fickle winter weather. 

Amber stands smiling in her uniform-blue, melton wool parka in front of a green corrugated building with large barn wood doors.

After deciding to make this out of wool melton, I knew I wanted it to include a lining—which is not written into the pattern. I was a bit intimidated by going off-pattern, but also determined. I had plenty of emotional support from crafty co-workers. It's a wonderful thing when folks are willing to listen as you talk through things and then they remind you that you can do it! (Read to the bottom of this post for my synopsis of adding a lining.)

Amber holds her blue wool parka open, showing off a silver and navy linen gingham lining.

The Hoodie Jacket fits nicely in the shoulders with plenty of room inside for sweaters and winter layers. Pleats in the back allow for unrestricted, comfortable movement. I do like moving around, so that's awesome!

Amber stands facing away, showing the back of the uniform-blue parka. There are pleats on each side of the coat at her shoulder blades, and her hood is down, resting on the back of the coat.

I really love the length of this jacket—longer than all of my other winter coats but not so long that it gets in your way. I'm 5' 6" tall, and the hem of the Hoodie Parka hits me just about at the knees. The length is sure to fend off chilly gusts of wind and keep my legs warm.

The hood is perfect, too, for blustery days! It's just large enough to fit over a wooly hat. Perfect for hand-knit winter hat aficionados! 

Close up of Amber, wearing her Hoodie Parka with it's hood up. She wears it over her woolly Lopi hat. She has a goofy wide mouthed-grin.

I finished my coat with large sew-on snaps as closure. I like the smooth look of hidden snaps on this coat, and it makes it easy to put on and take off with mittened hands. 

Close up of the front of Amber's parka. She holds open the front to reveal the sew-on snaps inside.

If you'd like to try lining this pattern too, here's my quick synopsis of how I added my lining: 

In addition to my main coat fabric, I cut 2.5 yards of my main lining fabric and 1 yard of Bemberg lining (for the sleeve).

When cutting out pieces, I cut most of my pieces out of my main fabric as written in the pattern EXCEPT I cut: Inner Hood, Lower Pocket Flap, ONE of the two Yokes, and the Top and Lower Pocket Bags from my lining fabric.

To cut pieces for the lining of the coat, I re-cut most of the main coat pieces out of my main lining as well: Front and Back Body, Front and Back Skirt (don't cut the pocket opening notches out of the Front skirt though). 

From my slippery Bemberg lining, I only cut the Top and Under Sleeves. 

I sewed the hood as written for the pattern, but left about 1" of the inner hood free at the front placket (to later attach the full lining to). 

I then assembled my coat as written, except I skipped over these three main steps: stitching the front coat edge, attaching the inner yoke, and finishing the hem.

I assembled the lining pieces (including the inner yoke) into a lining version of the coat body. I then seamed it to the loose bottom edge of the inner hood. The lining could then be neatly finished by sandwiching the raw edges between the coat front edge as it is finished, and also between the hem of the coat and the sleeve facing. 

I hope that helps if you too would like to line your Hoodie Parka!

Amber stands in her blue wool parka smiling.

All in all, this pattern was a real joy to make and I look forward to trying out more of The Assembly Line's patterns!

Comments on this post (2)

  • Feb 16, 2023

    Thank you so much for these lining instructions / tips!! I adore this pattern but making a lining nearly broke me…. I feel confident enough to try again now. Donna, NZ

    — donna

  • Jan 29, 2021

    Brilliant job! I am going to make a toile with a canvas, but will be following your lead because I need a (cool, functional, good looking) wool coat that no one else has. Question on the lining/wool outer mix: would you add anything heavier than just a plain cotton/linen? I am thinking maybe a light quilted something for extra warmth (I’m in Sweden but our weather is similar, though wetter).

    — amanda

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