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Alysha's Rainy Day Ilford Jacket

Woman in blue jacketPhoto Credit: Alysha Colón

Pattern: Ilford Jacket by Friday Pattern Company
Materials: 14 Wale Corduroy in Rain
Size made: XXL
Mods: Drafted full facing instead of fold-over button placket

Jacket button band
Photo Credit: Alysha Colón

Fall is mostly here in the Midwest, and I wanted to make a jacket to carry me through the season. The Ilford is a great pattern to start with if you haven’t made a jacket before. This is my first pattern from Friday Pattern Company, and I really enjoyed making it. The instructions are clear and they walk you through the whole process--the only thing left up to you is pocket placement, so you can get them exactly the way you like. I appreciate that aspect of the pattern in particular because, due to my height and build, I end up moving patch pockets on garments to a different spot quite often. The shape fits my style perfectly, and I love that it’s a gender neutral pattern.

Woman in blue jacket
Photo Credit: Alysha Colón

I chose Fancy Tiger Crafts 14 Wale Corduroy for 2 reasons: it looks super soft and comfortable, and I had never sewn this fabric before and wanted to try something new. I was torn between the colors Rust and Rain. I finally decided I need to add some more cool tones to my wardrobe and settled on Rain, but I will be back for Rust because it is the perfect fall color. I was right about the feel of the fabric--it is amazingly soft and doesn’t feel stiff on your body at all. I’m imagining other projects that could be sewn up in this corduroy like trousers, skirts, and pinafores.

Because the jacket is unlined, I bias-bound the facing and all the seams, minus the collar and hems, with homemade bias tape. I wanted the jacket to look tidy on the inside and it was worth the extra time it took to make the bias tape and bind the seams. I made no fit changes to the XXL this time around, but next time I’ll take some length off of the sleeves.

Jacket inside

This pattern has been out for a while and there is plenty of feedback about it on Instagram. I saw several posts regarding the place where the button placket meets the collar being a concern for wear and tear. I decided to avoid all of that by drafting a facing for the jacket. I spent some time researching how to draft a facing myself, and it turned out it was pretty easy! I made my facing 4 inches wide and shorter on the bottom to reduce bulk in the hem. I also cut 2 inches off the front plackets, since I wouldn’t be folding any fabric over. I even sewed up a small muslin of the placket and facing to make sure it worked out! I'm very happy with how it turned out, and feel like this finish will withstand much more wear.

Jacket cuff

Sewing the jacket was pretty easy as long as I took my time with the fabric as it is thick, particularly where the fabric is layered. My machine handled it like a breeze, thankfully! I made sure to use a new, bigger-sized needle, and use lots of clips rather than pins. If I hadn’t taken the time to bind all the seams beforehand, this jacket would have been done very quickly, but it's a detail I really enjoy. This jacket turned out perfect and will be another place I can show off some of my enamel pins. I added two upper pockets and flaps for that very reason! I would recommend this pattern and fabric to anyone who wants to try making outerwear for the first time, or to anyone who just wants a classic style jacket in their wardrobe!

Woman in blue jacket

If you would like to keep up with Alysha's work, be sure to follow her on Instagram for more beautiful makes!

Comments on this post (2)

  • Oct 27, 2020

    This jacket is fabulous and I really appreciate all the thought you put into the details!

    — Kelsey

  • Oct 27, 2020

    You’re so talented! 😍 That color combo with blue and brown is super cute!

    — Rachael

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